This wine from Chassagne-Montrachet's Sylvain Morey sings with elegance and power
plowed rather than sprayed
The man farming some of the steepest rows in Saint-Peray used to fix cars for a living
and Meunier from Premier Cru vineyards
with élevage in barrel on lees
Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanee 2023 CHECK UPC This wine from Chassagne-Montrachet's SylvainEmmanuel Rouget is the nephew of Henri Jayer and the inheritor of his vines, his cellar, and his philosophy. His village Vosne Romanee comes from a handful of small parcels scattered across the appellation, including Aux Reas, Les Jacquines, and Aux Ormes. The recipe is pure Jayer: laughably low yields, full destemming, a long cold soak, and patient aging. The wine drinks like a textbook of what Vosne is supposed to taste like, all rose and spice and